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Day: 12 November 2013

Double indemnity at The Cornerhouse

This group show is spread over three galleries, each with its own theme inspired by lines from the film. While it could be argued that they are too different – Galleries 1 and 3 could be from completely different exhibitions – it was still a concept that made for an interesting viewing experience. And not just viewing: Double Indemnity really is a 3D experience. A good number of the pieces are video works, so you have sound as well as well as vision and there is even a work that caters for the sense of smell in the form of a fragrance.

The exhibition begins in Gallery 1, whose theme is “Object of Desire.” One particularly memorable piece is Hito Steyerl’s “Lovely Andrea,” a film investigating the practice of bondage photography in Japan. Shocking and somewhat revolting, it shows a dangerous and seedy underworld and tells how women are often dragged unwittingly into it and have to buy their way out.

Another striking video piece in the same gallery is Andrea Fraser’s “Official Welcome,” in which the artist quotes lines from various art exhibition openings while steadily removing her clothes, all in front of an audience. A third piece is Sophie Calle’s “The Shadow,” for which the artist had a detective tail her around Paris for a day. Her romantic account of the day and his cold, professional write-up of her activities clash very effectively.

Gallery 2 is divided into two sections. The first features one of the most disturbing exhibits – an installation by Bunny Rogers and Filip Olszewski which consists of a set of speakers from which a child sings about death, accompanied by three sound blankets based on images from a child modelling website, all under the title “Desiring Youth.” The second section is entitled “Desiring Bureaucracy.” One of its pieces is Sharif Waked’s “Chic Point;” a film juxtaposing fashion with bureaucracy at Israeli checkpoints, suggesting a link based on the way both can involve the exposure of midriff.

Gallery 3 – “Consuming Desire” –  features, among other works, Frances Stark’s “My Best Thing,” a bizarre but somewhat captivating piece discussing, in a novel way with animated characters, many different issues. The crudeness and vulgarity of some of the dialogue makes for uncomfortable viewing, but adds to the dark feel of the whole exhibition.

I came away from this show with an array of emotions, and the thought that Cornerhouse really is great at putting together exhibitions where there is a theme, yet the works are incredibly diverse.

 

The Beauty Trap

‘Am I beautiful?’ I speculated as I examined myself in the mirror. From a young and impressionable age I have been bombarded with society’s standards and ideals of what makes a woman beautiful.  The slender figure, the smooth skin, the blonde hair; that’s every female adolescent’s fantasy, isn’t it?

Nancy Etcoff once said that ‘no definition can capture beauty entirely’. The female body is a medium of culture where a woman faces pressures to meet certain standards of beauty in society. Women have historically attempted to change their bodies to conform to a particular era’s epitome of beauty, from the Rubenesque curvaceous body of the 1600s to the elf-like slender body of the 21st century. In current Western culture, plumpness is considered unideal, and as symbolising a lack of willpower. As women, we tend to internalize standards of beauty and judge ourselves to the point of self-hatred. This accomplishes nothing but distorted views about how our bodies and faces should look. I asked Lana Ekkes, age 16 from London, if she had personally tried to achieve society’s ideals of beauty,

‘Weight has always been a major thing for me. When I was in infant school, my best friend was stick thin and very pretty. I didn’t really know what weight was but I knew that she was different from me and that she had better physical traits than me. I wanted to be more like her. I now limit the amount of calories I intake depending on whether I have gained or lost weight. I also maintain a daily exercise regime.’

The ability of media publicising to affect adolescents today has advanced through many different means. Digital editing has created a fabricated ideal of women that is impossible to achieve. Celebrities, good or bad, have been made ‘role-models’ for young adults such as myself and are presented as people that should be emulated.

Adolescent girls have become a major target for commercial companies because they are new and inexperienced consumers. They are in the process of learning their values and roles, and developing their identity. Publicists are aware of their role and do not hesitate to take advantage of the insecurities and anxieties of young girls. This is done by offering solutions to their apparent inadequacies. One of the many impacts this marketing strategy can have on adolescent girls begins with lack of self-esteem, comparing their looks with that of an airbrushed model, conceal what they believe to be an imperfection, excessively diet and exercise, undergo cosmetic surgery and, in extreme cases, can develop mental illnesses.

The number of  young adults pursuing cosmetic surgery has significantly increased over the past two decades. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, more than 300,000 people aged 18 years or younger underwent either major or minor plastic surgical procedures in 2012. People generally turn to cosmetic surgery because they’re not happy about the way they look. Teens who have cosmetic procedures — such as otoplasty (surgery to pin back ears) or dermabrasion (the camouflage of acne scars) — feel more comfortable with their appearance after the procedure. The most common procedures teens choose include nose reshaping, ear surgery, acne scar treatment, and breast enlargement. What most teens don’t know, or choose to ignore, is that a person’s body continues to change throughout the teen years. Body parts that might appear too large or too small now can become more proportionate over time.

Women are not the only susceptible victims of the Beauty Trap. It is estimated that about 45% of Western men are unhappy with their body to some degree, compared with only 15% 25 years ago. Gay men, models, dancers and athletes are particularly vulnerable to poor body image or feeling insecure about their body. This is because they are more likely to be judged (or believe they will be judged) according to their appearance. 17% of men are on a weight loss diet at any given time. But men also worry about being muscular. A desire to fit the ideal masculine image of lean muscularity means that over-exercising and the use of dangerous and illegal drugs (like steroids) are on the rise. Some researchers say that men with a greater preference for traditional masculine roles are more likely to be fixated with bulking up, while men who display a greater adherence to traditional feminine roles are more likely to have slimming disorders like anorexia nervosa. I asked Cameron Fletch, age 14 from Michigan, whether he had personally tried to achieve society’s ideals of beauty,

‘’I do want to be thinner and I’m pretty sure this has to do with society valuing thinness so much. I used to make myself vomit up whatever I ate in order to get thinner.’’

So is there any way to stop the poisonous transmission of society’s ideals of beauty? No. But there are ways that can help female, and male, adolescents put these ‘perfect’ idealisations into perspective. We need to be aware of what celebrity images or commercials have been digitally enhanced; to be shown that they have imperfections too. We need to know that excessive exercise and dieting is not the way to a ‘perfect’ figure. We need to embrace our originality and individualism in order to teach young girls of today that beauty is more than just a pretty face. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Beauty is your warm and loving family. Beauty is the sensation of falling in love.  Beauty is art and knowledge and creation. Beauty is existence. Don’t be your own worst enemy.

Exposed: American Apparel

Image: mamamia.com.au

Controversy is almost as synonymous with American Apparel as the disco pant. The high street holy-grail of leggings and basics has been through its fair share of lawsuits, criminal investigations and media storms. You may be thinking, what could this fair trade, anti-sweatshop, gay marriage embracing company be doing wrong? Well, their advertising campaigns alone are enough to cause outrage. For those of you who have not seen an American Apparel ad, imagine something close to softcore porn. Think young g-string clad models in polo necks, lying on a bed with their legs in the air, or a girl in a leotard lying on a sofa with her legs splayed open with the witty line “now open”. There are even whole buzzfeeds and tumblrs dedicated to ‘American Apparel’s raciest ads ever’ for those of you who wish to make further investigation (…perverts). While American Apparel claims these ads are creative, honest and artistic, many people think they are overtly sexual images, which objectify women and appear to show young girls looking vulnerable. As a result many adverts have been banned and are under investigation by the Advertising Standards Authority.

The highly sexualised and risqué images that represent American Apparel as a company seem to be representative of its founder and CEO Dov Charney. It is fair to say Charney is unconventional in his approach as a boss; he is a self-confessed unrepentant sex addict who conducts most of his meetings in his underwear or merely wearing a sock (which isn’t worn on his foot, I should add). Charney has been known by multiple sources to masturbate in front of a female journalist in a meeting and even said in a deposition hearing “I frequently drop my pants to show people my new product”. However this ‘unconventional approach’ has landed him in some seriously hot water over the years. Charney has been the subject of at least five sexual harassment lawsuits since the mid 2000’s, although none of these has been proven and nearly all of them have been dismissed, thrown out, or remain pending. Dov Charney relishes his reputation as a libertarian and someone who shocks, and he believes that it is this “creativity” as he calls it, that has been so crucial in American Apparel’s success.

Even recently you may have noticed American Apparel once again being the focus of attention with a new T-Shirt they have brought out depicting a menstruating, masturbating vagina called “Period Power”. Whether you consider this taboo breaking and empowering or disgusting and distasteful, there is no question it will have provoked an opinion. Clearly these provocative acts of t-shirt and ad campaigns have done the company very little consumer damage; would you stop wearing one of their classic hoodies because of a slightly raunchy ad? Probably not. Dov Charney on the other hand should probably rein in his obscene acts, and maybe put on a pair of trousers in the process. The clothes seem to fit nicely, the CEO maybe not so much.