Burberry’s show at LFW was bold and beautiful, and even brought back a controversial part of the family…
On Saturday 16th September, Burberry held its London fashion week runway show at the former court house, Old Sessions House in London.
Walked by models of the moment, Adwoa Aboahson, Jean Campbell, Kaia Gerber and Lennon Gallagher (Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher’s son), the show inspired a youthful, contemporary and exciting atmosphere. Chief creative Christopher Bailey said, the “collection finds the humour, and the beauty, and the pathos, and the sheer glorious eccentricity of the British way of dressing.”
The British label has a rich heritage, reaching back to 1856 when Thomas Burberry established the company as a maker of quality outerwear. Since then, the label has sheltered the soldiers of WW1 from the rain with its aptly named trench coat and earned the royal warrant.
In the show, we saw this beloved piece alongside colourful plastics, oversized statement jewellery and Argyll wool. Think: a Scottish farmer meets Dallas.
However, there was also another nod to Burberry’s past. Something we thought we’d locked in a seal tight container and thrown away the key. A relic of a bygone era.
The Burberry cap. IT’S BACK.
The controversial cap in the infamous Nova check print is the black sheep of the Burberry family. To this day, for some the very name Burberry still conjures images of buzz cut lads in check baseball caps, perched on walls or playground swings swigging cans of red stripe and shouting profanities. This is because in the late nineties and early noughties when Nova check was a staple in every celebrity wardrobe, thousands of cheap Burberry replicas flooded the market. Their staple print covered all manner of products from the infamous cap to dog collars (guilty) and became readily available. Soon the Burberry cap was adopted by so called ‘CHAVS’ and became a symbol for aggressive street culture, even initiating a ban of caps from shopping centres in 2005.
What happened next? The cap was taken off the market in disgrace and the infamous print relegated to coat linings, never to see the light of day. Until now.
Whether the shows court house venue is a nod and a wink towards this dubious past is unknown. What we do know, is that with Bailey’s self-confessed humorous collection, the print has been reclaimed with confidence, splashed on not only caps but coats, bags and scarves too. A decade ago this would have turned our stomachs, but now we celebrate the irony and call it vintage.
Is Burberry then commenting on the fickleness of fashion in general, and its never-ending cycle of break ups and make ups?
Whatever their intention, Burberry has managed to make their infamous cap look like a heritage piece. Whether you dare the trend is down to you, but bear in mind though they’ve stuck a £195 label on it.
Or of course, you could buy a knock off down the market, but that might start the whole cycle again.