The Labrum A/W’26 London Fashion Week show was held on February 21st at One Great George Street: a magnificent conference centre in the heart of London. In collaboration with Adidas, designer Foday Dumbaya brought ‘the second chapter in the Labrum trilogy’ : Threads of Osmosis.
This latest collection is a fantastic example of how designers are bridging the gap between fashion and politics – using design and creation as a medium to advocate for equality and promote human rights.
Following on from their S/S26 collection Cultural Osmosis, the Threads of Osmosis collection reflects the movement of cloth overseas, textiles’ travelling across borders. That is what Threads of Osmosis is about: cultural fluidity. That diverse cultures can coexist within and across borders; within and outside of our own wardrobes. Labrum uses this collection to show that this is happening now. People can be connected now, no matter where they come from, and work in unison rather than competition.
Embedded into both the men’s and women’s collections, their ‘updated passport print’ is a primary example of the meaning behind their designs: to reflect the ‘ever changing nature of migration’. Countries worldwide merge within this collection: crocheted bags make a nod to Sierra Leone, headwear making reference Agadez warriors, and a cord appliqué dress inspired by West African braided hairstyles. This collection is a physical representation of how a multitude of cultures can thrive side-by-side, complementing each other, rather than competing. It’s somewhat of a metaphor towards what we might hope to see in the real world, too.
Except it’s not. Labrum is very clear when they say the ‘garments you see here are not metaphors’ – this is real life. But without culture and collaboration you cannot have fashion either.
Foday Dumbaya is excelling at portraying this through his work. Labrum rejects the concept of cultural purity, and instead suggests fluidity and hybridity is both a historical and modern day truth. The message is clear: there is no one ‘right’ way to live. No one ‘right’ way to be. No one has to be better than another. Life and culture does not have to be a competition.
From the beginning, founder and designer Foday Dumbaya knew the story he wanted to tell. In an interview with Murray Clark, from British GQ, he explains the delivery of his collections in a trilogy, an unfolding story in itself. Creating the collection across borders (India, China, Sierra Leone, Portugal and Turkey) embodies the narrative he is trying to tell of collaboration and cooperation – celebrating mixture, trials and tests.
Foday himself grew up surrounded by cultural diversity, moving fluidly across epochs in his life by blending and merging different lifestyles together. His aim is to be the voice for people who can relate, for those who feel like they do not fit in one box – a reality that could become more and more common as we see globalisation continue to move forward.
In their bio, they mention their sequence of thought: ‘Culture moves. Threads connect us. And we are all part of the weave.’ Clothes travel from all over the world, but when we put them on, we are wearing creations crafted by the hands of someone likely far, far away. Someone’s work, someone’s talent from across borders is part of our daily lives – Labrum is making us conscious, and encouraging us to celebrate that through wearing their clothes.
It’s a message that’s relevant, important, and crucial in our society today. Foday Dumbaya is demonstrating, with Labrum, that fashion can make moves, and celebrate the moves that people make all over the world.
