We all know the LBD – Little Black Dress. Coco Chanel brought this timeless piece into the public eye in 1926 when it featured in American Vogue, and nothing could have revolutionised the fashion world more. Nearly 100 years on the LBD remains a symbol of effortless style. But exactly how has this single garment shaped fashion since then?
The post-war fashion world began to break free from societal expectations of how women should dress, instead offering liberating designs and embracing modernity. Affordability of this simple design meant women across social classes could access chic, tasteful fashion for the first time.
The sleek silhouette broke the tradition of black solely being used for mourning and funerals. Instead, Chanel’s genius yet simple design became a symbol of empowerment for women. The earliest versions echoed traditional styles of flapper dresses, but designers have since evolved the Little Black Dress into everything from sultry body-cons to avant-garde couture pieces.
By the 1940s and 1950s, Hollywood had skyrocketed the look into popularity. Audrey Hepburn’s Givenchy sheath in Breakfast at Tiffany’s propelled the dress into a realm of sensuality and sophistication. Affordable, practical, and versatile, the Little Black Dress became an iconic wardrobe staple.
Due to the surge in disco culture in the 1970s, the Little Black Dress soon became decorated with sequins and glitter, before the 1980s added a cutting edge extravagance to the piece.
Fashion boomed in the 1990s. Supermodels ruled the runway and glamour, and inclusivity gained ground. One of the most iconic looks of all fashion history was born: Princess Diana’s ‘revenge dress’. The off-the-shoulder fitted gown made headlines worldwide and is one that won’t be forgotten in a hurry. Alongside maximal glamour, minimalism took hold. The Little Black Dress was stripped back to clean lines, proving simplicity can still be powerful.
The noughties introduced even more experimentation with the LBD. Cuts, textures, and lengths led designers to become creative and offer more personality within their looks. Alexander McQueen experimented with feathers and lace, giving new leverage to turn it from plain to daring.
At this time, many subcultures adopted black as their own. Punk and goth movements embraced it as a symbol of rebellion, adding more cultural depth to the colour.
Meanwhile, the red carpet became a place of reinvention for the LBD. Kate Moss, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Angelina Jolie have all had standout moments with a little black dress. Sequin embellishments, cinched waists, and experimentations with different cuts aside, this piece remains popular on the red carpet – every look more striking and inspiring than the last.
One of the most memorable came in 1994. The Versace safety-pin dress worn by Liz Hurley for the Four Weddings and a Funeral premiere cemented the Little Black Dress’ reputation in the fashion world. Oversized gold pins hold the sides of the dress together before the split. This unexpected bombshell moment turned the fashion world on its head and boosted Hurley to popularity, showing the power of the LBD in all its forms.
Fast forward to today, the LBD has reverted back to its simplistic style.
A quick google search for ‘little black dresses’ reveals sites like Oh Polly, ASOS, and PrettyLittleThing, which predominantly feature a short, plain cut black dress – living up to its name. These ordinary designs offer a contrast to looks we see in couture and high-fashion runways; exploring and combining techniques and styles onto an otherwise simple dress. Young girls all over the country reach for this piece when going to house parties, and it works every time.
The evolution of the LBD is one shaped by music, society, history, and Hollywood, and is a nod to the eternal appeal of simplicity. From Chanel’s original ideas of simplicity to Versace’s scandalous safety pins, the Little Black Dress was never just another item of clothing. Its versatility keeps it timeless – an item appropriate to wear at any point of day, dressed up or dressed down, this dress is a quintessential item to have in your wardrobe.
