Standing strong on the Curry Mile for the last 60 years is Sanam, a traditional South Asian restaurant with an adjoining sweet shop, selling authentic mithai, ranging from Indian to Arab flavours and varieties to suit the diverse tastes of Rusholme. The restaurant’s menu mirrors this, sticking to South Asian classics like mixed grill starters, veggie chaats, and a range of ‘homestyle desi dishes’.
Speaking with Shahid at their Rusholme restaurant, we got a real sense of why Sanam has been such a staple of the Mile for so long. Shahid stated plainly “everybody likes it [South Asian food]” and with his “respect for everyone” it’s clear that there is a strong welcoming nature that has sustained the business all these years.
Shahid follows by discussing the inclusivity that Sanam provides for customers, giving the example that “we have mild, medium and spicy food. If anybody takes it mild, we make it mild.” Care and attention to detail is key to their practice, and customers are at the centre of that. Every decision they make is focused on improving the customer’s experience for the duration of their time spent at Sanam.
This message is therefore extended to students as he confirmed that Sanam “must look after students first”. With most of us only being in Manchester for the few years of our degree length, Shahid is keen to provide an experience that many of us will keep coming back for, which thanks to the brevity of their success is a reality for them.
“[Sanam] must look after students first”
Discussing past students in Manchester returning to Sanam, Shahid tells us “They [past students] come with their family, sitting and eating food… everybody saying ‘we’ve been coming for a long time, when we were students here’”, only proving the legacy that Sanam holds. Their customers hold a deep appreciation of the restaurant, one which spans multiple generations of students, as Shahid reminisces about previous students returning many years later with their children and new families.
Spots like Sanam are sticking to their roots of traditional Indian and Pakistani cooking. We asked how these more modernised spots compare to Sanam, particularly with a seemingly increasing taste for authenticity seeping into student life.
“Yes, every restaurant has a different style. Our style is different, every restaurant style is different. […] We are cooking proper, proper ingredients, proper everything.” It is somewhat refreshing to hear Shahid express so much pride in simply ‘doing things right’ and knowing that it is working for Sanam, and has done for so long. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it, right?
“We are cooking proper”
He goes on further to explain how this careful consideration for Sanam’s food goes hand in hand with care for customers, giving the example “If anybody comes in and says ‘It is very mild, I need it a little bit spicy’. Okay, we make it a little bit spicy. Is it okay now? Until the customer is happy. If they are not happy, we are not happy.” This re-enactment of dedicated customer service, while slightly amusing, is endearing, as perhaps this is the backbone of 60 years of success for the restaurant.
But with this heart warming revelation in mind, we couldn’t help but wonder why restaurants on the Mile, like Sanam, are declining in popularity. While South Asian cuisine is a consistently popular staple for students, the trend of frequenting the ‘curry house’ after a night in the pub feels dated. Shahid seems to put this down to two reasons: “Now, a little bit down [business], because of the parking problem. […] Where do they park if every street is checking tickets?”
The issue of parking, and addition of cycle lanes to Wilmslow Road has arisen previously, when Sanam spoke to the Manchester Evening News in 2022, where it is clear that business along the Mile have been affected. Yet, we pointed out that this may not really apply to many students, as many of us brave the buses, or bitter cold via walking. Here, the second reason presented itself, as Shahid revealed his frustrations about restaurants closing down and shisha bars opening in their place.
It is true that a number of shisha bars have begun to dominate Curry Mile, opposing the road’s namesake, and likely keeping up with new incoming demand, a sentiment that Shahid echoes: “I don’t know where they [other restaurants] have gone.” The evolution of the Curry Mile seems to come with a nostalgic sentiment, yet Sanam remains right at home. Perhaps, rather than straight up modernisation, we are in a transitionary phase of the Mile, with an integration of old and new reflecting the blending of demographics that Rusholme is accompanied by.
So moving forward, we asked what might entice current students in Manchester to come to Sanam, if the restaurant has been able to boast great food and customer service for 60 years, then by rights, it should be a go to spot. In response, Shahid is keen to emphasise that “If the students come in, we have three parts: one small hall, one bigger hall, and [in a] party situation, we handle it, and anything they need, we provide it. We are happy, and the students must be happy with the party and with the celebration.”
Speaking warmly of student celebration he concluded that “all the parents and students come to Sanam restaurant and celebrate.” Sanam are keen to welcome students for all types of celebration, or as Shahid warmly welcomed the idea of, a graduation treat: “We have congratulations for everyone!”
Sanam is open Mondays-Sundays, 12pm-12am.
