At London Fashion Week, Helen Anthony and Poet-Lab redefined sartorial boundaries, showing how they thrive in the space between structure and fluidity.
From reimagined tailoring to experimental silhouettes, one of the defining shifts of the last decade has been the rise of gender-fluidity in mainstream fashion. Helen Anthony and Poet-Lab are key pioneers in blurring the lines of gendered fashion and celebrating individuality, and their autumn/winter collections in London Fashion Week proved that this is not a fleeting trend, but a deliberate industry shift—one that is championing inclusivity and driving political change.
Helen Anthony: Gemini Collection
Helen Anthony’s Gemini collection was an electric display of innovation and artistry, reaffirming the brand’s status as a major force in British fashion. And what better place to showcase the blending of masculinity and femininity than in a collection dubbed a “celebration of duality”?
The runway juxtaposed the signature tailored suits in striking check prints with daring animal prints and a vibrant colour palette. There was a striking contrast within each piece that defied expectation. Of course, their iconic chunky ties and oversized bags, which have been a significant feature in previous collections, made a welcome return. Anthony paired accessible, diluted skirts with bold statement jackets, and classic men’s suits with distinctive, furry leopard-skin handbags, ensuring that every garment and combination told a story of duality.
The collection showcased a wide spectrum of styles, demonstrating that gender-fluid fashion doesn’t always have to be rebellious or radical. Looks featuring accessible, everyday tailoring—blazers, trench coats, ties, or even the smallest of accessories—proved that expressions of identity can be seamlessly woven into the mundane. This influence on shaping autumn wear on the high street will be highly anticipated.
One of the collection’s most captivating pieces was a bright and bold, colourful floral ensemble—a balaclava, knitted jumper, and tights in a fiery orange. This beautiful commotion of crocheted florals was a testament to the time and meticulous detail put into each stitch. The look deliberately defied every rule that has been placed upon fashion’s seasonal calendar, yet it was visually arresting and will undoubtedly inspire winter wardrobes.
Beyond these innovative garments and luxurious British fabrics, I must mention the show-stopping hair—which was a spectacle in itself. Dramatic 60s beehives and elaborately lacquered looks featured prominently, completing the theatrical, boundary-pushing aesthetic perfectly.
If ever there was a ‘perfect’ harmony between tradition and modernity, structure and fluidity, designer Naeem Anthony’s got it down with his seemingly effortless blending of diverse influences and styles. He seamlessly blends masculinity and femininity, demonstrating that fashion exists on a spectrum where anything goes, and everyone belongs.
Everything about the show exuded precision and thoughtfulness. Even the chosen venue, the super boutique Londoner Hotel, aligned with their theme—they celebrated London as a “city of brilliant collisions, contradictions, and juxtapositions,” which felt like a perfect match with this Gemini collection.
With a flair for the dramatical and an unapologetic artistic vision, Poet-Lab’s Gentle(wo)man was equally matched in innovation and thrill. It’s clear that the word ‘rules’ doesn’t exist in either one of these designers’ vocabularies.
Poet Lab: The Gentle(wo)man collection
The Gentle(wo)man collection, which was inspired by the Dadaism ready-made movement, featured a bold fusion of deconstruction and reinvention. It transformed structured tailoring into fluid silhouettes, exaggerating everyday forms to push boundaries. The oversized trend was taken to an extreme, pairing grand proportions with wardrobe staples, making even the everyday feel monumental.
Giuseppe Iaciofano’s collection also embraced imperfection, with asymmetrical silhouettes, raw edges, and intrusive details serving as a critique of societal norms. These deliberate “flaws” should be celebrated as marks of individuality, encouraging the narrative that imperfection and difference are a new style of beauty.
Beyond aesthetics, Helen Anthony and Poet-Lab both showed commitment to sustainability by using traceable, locally sourced or repurposed deadstock fabrics—a serendipitous proof of duality that brands don’t have to trade style for responsibility. Their efforts suggest a broader shift within the industry toward a more thoughtful approach to fashion—certainly with these newer up-and-comers.
While the industry veers away from rigid binaries, Helen Anthony and Poet-Lab have proved they are not just jumping on trends; they are actively driving the sociocultural conversation around gender. Maybe it’s time for an industry-wide rebrand, with retailers reconsidering how they categorise, instead of labelling clothes in the binary ‘men’s’ or ‘women’s.’ As the industry continues to evolve, designers like Helen Anthony and Poet-Lab will undoubtedly keep advocating that creativity knows no gender and that the most exciting fashion future is one without rules.
“Inclusivity-ethical, for me, is one word. Everyone can wear a Poet-Lab with no judgment of who can wear what.” – Giuseppe Iaciofano
