A brief history of Shrove Tuesday
Words by Alexander Wescott
For many living in contemporary Britain, the first thing that comes to mind when they hear of Shrove Tuesday (aka Pancake Day) is eating stacks of hot pancakes, smeared in chocolate spread and drowned in syrup. More traditionally though, the day has been a time to be shriven, to confess and become absolved, before starting the Lenten fast, and holds strong religious importance to many Christians.
Taking a deeper look into the special occasion reveals that, not only is the rich batter associated with Pancake Day, but that there is also a rich history behind it, originating from the traditions of the Early Christian Church and even ancient pagan holidays.
In many countries that celebrate, Shrove Tuesday is an excuse for festivities. Known as Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday, in the Francophone world, or Carnival more generally, it is observed all around the world in some variation, from Hungary to Hawai’i.
The root cause of many of these festivals can be found in medieval Europe where, at the end of the pre-Lent period, observers often knew that they would not have a good feast for at least 40 days and 40 nights due to restrictions on the consumption of meat and dairy during Lent. Additionally, over the preceding winter, food stores would’ve been carefully rationed before the first harvests could be made in spring, however, any rich food that wasn’t eaten before the fast would eventually perish and go to waste.
To prevent all this meat and dairy going to the swill, people found creative ways to use the surplus. In Britain this manifested as Pancake Day, the pancake being an efficient way to use up butter, milk, and eggs all in one. Similarly, other countries often have their own treat to substitute the pancake, such as fastelavnsbollers in Denmark and tortillas in Spain.
Like Christmas and Easter, most of the original spiritual connotations with Shrove Tuesday have been replaced in the public consciousness with material practices. Some might not have even known the holiday was this week had it not been for the aggressive reminders from supermarkets to buy extra Nutella or stock up on butter.
Ultimately though, there is something about sharing these disks of batter that transcends their round and worldly forms. While Pancake Day may not superficially resemble old Shrovetide practices, its essence has not yet been lost and in the years to come it will undoubtably remain a vital marker of the passing of the year.
Pancakes around the world : Savoury edition
Words by Ayse Parlak
When confronted with the topic of pancake day and pancakes, most think of sweet varieties, topped with sticky syrups and sugary garnishes. However, hidden in the shadows of the sweet pancake world, lies a realm of savoury pancakes, waiting to be discovered by those who crave a touch of salt. These three different savoury types of pancakes are equally rich in flavour as they are in history.
Blini : Eastern Europe
Starting off with Eastern Europe, blinis are small, round pancakes that are usually garnished with sour cream, salmon, and caviar. Dating back to pre-Christian times, Slavic people considered blinis to be a symbol of the sun, given their round shape, and often baked them at the end of the winter to honour the rebirth of the new sun. This pre-Christian tradition was later adopted by the Orthodox Church to use up remaining dairy products before the start of Lent, also known as Pancake Day by Western Christians. The rich history of the blini demonstrates how the humble dish is more than just a meal, offering insight to societal change as well as cultural heritage and celebration.
Bánh Xèo : Vietnam
Now taking a trip to a sunnier land, the Vietnamese Bánh Xèo gets its name from the sizzling sound it makes whilst being fried, literally translating to “sizzling cake”. This stuffed, crispy rice pancake is often sold by street food vendors, and served with a variety of toppings such as pork, shrimp, and diced green onion, alongside a side of greens. Although the history of the dish is unclear, it is estimated that it originated in central Vietnam, due to the influence of French cuisine during the colonial era. In many ways, Bánh Xèo can be considered a Vietnamese take on the French crepe. Although the Bánh Xèo was originally reserved for the working classes, it has worked its way up into famous chain restaurants such as Bánh Xèo Muoi Xiem and An La Ghien, showing a widened cultural appreciation for this satiating dish.
Injera : Ethiopia
Finally, a pancake that is as practical as it is tasty from Ethiopia; Injera. This sourdough pancake/flatbread is made from teff flour and used as the platter, cutlery, and the bread. The thin, fermented pancake is laid underneath various stews to soak up the flavours of the food, and after the stews are consumed, the pancake is also consumed. When the ‘platter’ of injera is finished, the meal is considered complete. Despite its daily consumption, injera is also a significant part of religious and cultural celebrations such as the Ethiopian new year, where it serves as a signifier of shared culture and unity. The pancake has been dated back to 600 AD, and ever since, many different flavours of it have been created, varying from region to region, reflecting the abundant culture and diversity in Ethiopian cookery.
Pancakes around the world : The sweet tooth
Words by Hannah Summers
There’s no doubt that savoury pancakes are a sophisticated, delicious vessel for a variety of flavours, everybody loves a sweet treat. These two pancakes are sweet and comforting without being sickly, and each holds a special place in the heart of the country’s cuisine.
Hotteok : South Korea
These small, filled sweet treats are a popular street food throughout South Korea. Originally thought to have travelled in by Qing immigrants in the 19th century. They are made from a simple yeast dough which is left to rise for a few hours; a testament to good things coming to those who wait. Traditionally they are then filled with cinnamon, brown sugar and crushed nuts/seeds, though this can extend to savoury options nowadays. This beloved winter snack is enjoyed best straight off the hot pan.
Crêpes Suzette : France
While crêpes may be overdone, this powerhouse is a must-try. While the dish is undoubtedly delightfully complex in flavour, the origins of its name is less certain. Potentially named after either an actress or a guest at a royal dinner, it is sure to be a great honour and adds a nobility to the dessert.
The freshly prepared crêpes are flambéed in a beurre Suzette, a signature mix of butter, caramelised sugar, orange zest, and Grand Marnier. Grand Marnier is a French orange liqueur used to fuel the flambée process, but can be replaced with an orange liqueur such as triple sec or Curaçao. The dish is lit tableside, providing not just a sweet treat, but a whole extravagant show. As the alcohol is cooked off, the resulting flavour is sharp and tangy, but with a resounding sweetness. Lighter than most other fillings, this showstopper is deceptively easy to eat at the end of a meal and the flame-filled display never fails to impress. That said, this is a dish worth searching for in a restaurant since the fiery process is not one you should try at home.
