Piccadilly Gardens probably isn’t the first place you’d think of for a decent bite to eat. So, news of its multi-million-pound revamp this week is definitely welcome – the area has been looking a little tired and worse for wear for a while now. In the meantime, its latest opening might be changing that reputation.
Bullgogi, the UK’s largest Korean BBQ restaurant, opened its doors at the start of the month. The restaurant comes from the masterminds behind Bunsik, the Korean street food brand that went viral for its corn dogs – you’ve likely seen them on TikTok. Conveniently, their Manchester Bunsik spot is also just around the corner in Piccadilly Gardens. This is Bullgogi’s second location, following the success of their London site.
It’s hard to picture the old M&S that once stood here, since Bullgogi feels right at home: its bold neon signage confidently says “I’m here”, but without screaming for attention. Inside, it’s quite simple. With space for up to 165 people, booths run the length of the room and each table is fitted with its own stovetop and tablet.
Korean BBQ wasn’t something me or my housemates had tried before, but not because we didn’t want to sample this style of communal dining. Steeped in tradition, its origins can be traced back to the Goguryeo era, over 2000 years ago, when nomadic tribes dominated the Korean Peninsula. Being skilled hunters, they cooked their meat over open fires, the first example of what we’d call Korean BBQ today.
Back to the modern day, we were warmly greeted, shown to our booth, and given a brief rundown of how the experience worked. Customers order their selection via a tablet, with a wide range of cuts of meat to barbecue. Beyond their BBQ offering, there’s also a generous range of sides and main dishes, including classic Korean pancakes, tteokbokki, and signature noodle dishes.
Although I’ve always been a bit sceptical of paying to cook your own food, I can’t imagine the novelty wearing off soon. Three of my housemates opted for the challenge (although the process did end up being easier than expected). They recommended one or two plates per person, which was plenty, with the meats averaging about £14-£15. It’s worth noting you do have to pay extra for Gogi Sangcharim (the plate of sides) to accompany your chosen meats – something which isn’t common at other Korean BBQs spots.
As for vegetarian and vegan options, it’d be fair to say the menu could do with a few more. There’s doenjang jjigae (a hearty Korean soybean stew), vegetable bibimbap, and kim guksu to choose from. But even with the limited selection, my fellow vegetarian housemate and I left feeling pretty satisfied.
The stew was rich, hearty, and flavoured well. The bibimap was classic and fresh – it’s hard to go wrong, with most restaurants serving the same selection of vegetables. The portion sizes were generous too. I usually clear my plate with ease, but this time it was a challenge. And, at £13.50 each, it felt fairly priced.
The sides were far from an afterthought: the dumplings were satisfyingly crispy; the tteokbokki – chewy, cylindrical rice cakes simmered in a spicy, savoury gochujang sauce – was both unexpected in texture and surprisingly enjoyable. As you’d hope from any good Korean restaurant, their kimchi was definitely up to scratch.
Whilst at the higher end of a student budget, the experience felt worth the splurge, especially to sample a new dining tradition. It’s not somewhere to frequent, but, for a change, it made for a great evening.
Leaving the restaurant, maybe we’d all shared a bit of ‘jeong,’ a uniquely Korean sense of warmth and connection that comes from sharing food and time together. A trip to Bullgogi provided the ideal opportunity to spend time away from the house, and for a much-needed chance to switch off.
