Anyone with an interest in fashion knows that the 90s were a big deal.
In recent years especially, the decade has taken on a somewhat mythical status. Those who lived through it reminisce about the glory days of their youth, whilst those who didn’t desperately wish they had seen it for themselves.
Luckily for the latter, In Vogue: The 90s has come to the rescue.
Featuring behind-the-scenes footage from Vogue editorial meetings, catwalks and more, In Vogue: The 90s brings the decade to life, telling the stories behind the most infamous moments in pop culture. The show shines a light on the inner-workings of the “defining publication about fashion”.
Covering everything from grunge to glamour, street style to red carpets, the documentary emphasises that fashion was more than just the clothes on your back, it was a vehicle for self-expression and the face of a movement.
There are talking heads from everyone who’s anyone in the fashion universe, including former Vogue editors, fashion designers, supermodels and Hollywood stars. Never has a programme been so star-studded, just when you’ve stopped going “Look it’s Gwyneth Paltrow!”, Kate Moss pops up, then Sarah Jessica Parker, and then Nicole Kidman. Hillary Clinton even makes an appearance at one point, making the programme seem like a Channel 5 documentary but with people who were actually there.
Anna Wintour, after refusing to take off her sunglasses, begins by detailing how she changed the style of Vogue when she took over as Editor-in-Chief in 1988. Change is a word you will hear a lot when watching this documentary: in the words of Edward Enninful, former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, “the 90s turned the fashion industry upside down”.
We learn that while Vogue was influenced by what was happening in the world, it was also starting to use its power to set the trends and stop the ones it didn’t approve of, namely grunge as Wintour was not a fan. Meanwhile, old institutions of fashion were struggling to stay relevant as new, young designers came onto the scene.
The 90s are also hailed as the start of collaboration between fashion houses and Hollywood, transforming both films and award ceremonies into the fashion showcases that they are today.
Amongst the tales from the many, many celebrities featured, Elizabeth Hurley discusses that Versace dress, John Galliano talks about designing for the one and only Princess Diana, and Linda Evangelista addresses her notorious comment that “We don’t wake up for less than $10,000 a day”.
The supermodels are of course a key part of the documentary, especially as the 90s was the last era of the true supermodels before they were replaced by already-established Hollywood stars. This is only reinforced by the ad breaks for Prada Paradoxe throughout the episodes, which feature Emma Watson, an actress not a model.
Surprisingly, the series doesn’t shy away from discussing controversial moments. Kate Moss discusses the backlash she received after a photoshoot she did that was perceived as promoting undereating. Stella McCartney also talks about the ‘nepo baby‘ remarks aimed at her after she was named creative director of Chloé in 1997.
In Vogue: The 90s is perhaps self-admiring at times, but this is Vogue we are talking about, it was never going to be modest and neither should it be.
The combination of behind-the-scenes footage and present day interviews perfectly capture the energy of the moment, making the 90s feel almost tangible and uncovering just what made this decade so extraordinary. It is an energetic and joyous celebration of art: the ultimate fashion documentary.
5/5
In Vogue: The 90s is available now on Disney+
