The lack of ethnic models has been a controversial topic within the fashion business for as long as we can remember. Although efforts have been made by certain brands to create an equilibrium of ethnic origins,the concept has evidently not been embraced by all. It is the debated, and what many consider narrow-minded, opinion that white models have more representation within the industry.
It seems you either have it or you don’t. If you get the break, you’re in—and the industry embraces you with open arms. However, if you do not make the cut, you really have to fight to earn your spot. In many ways, the model’s background therefore works for them, or strongly against them.
Global brands such as Calvin Klein are known for their ability to solely hire white models year after year, ignoring the potential variety of differing ethnicities. Numéro magazine has even gone as far as using a white, blonde-haired model and covering her form head-to-toe in dark make-up, a statement that sparked debate and fury within the fashion industry. It is therefore no surprise that many non-white models have found that this situation is something that needs to be addressed. Highly acclaimed faces including Naomi Campbell and Iman Abdulmajid, believe that the abolishment of discrimination is a subject that needs to be taken more seriously, specifically due to the acceptance of a multicultural society in other forms of work. Collectively, they have created a campaign known as ‘Diversity Coalition’ which has set out to demolish the inherent ethnic imbalance of models being used both editorially and on the catwalk.
The debate is particularly ignited around the season of fashion weeks. Refreshingly, London Fashion Week is known to be one of the occasions where models of all colours are embraced in comparison to Milan and Paris—who feature very few black models. In many of the previous London shows, Topshop has famously included Jourdan Dunn in their line-up of models, representing the rise of black, British models. Dunn made history by being the first black British model to appear on the Forbes models rich list, making her the highest paid black model of the last year. The 21st century has also witnessed more non-white models being embraced on the covers of high-fashion publications. A star example of this is Elle Magazine famously featuring Joan Smalls, a Puerto Rican native, on their cover. Smalls has also recently become the first Latina model to appear as the face of Estée Lauder, displaying a refreshing change within the industry.
Essentially, all models want to be booked because they have the ideal qualities, and not just to make a statement—so, how do you know where to draw the line? It is evidently a complex topic and a sensitive subject for many. However, recent actions show a step in the right direction with more brands learning to embrace the racially diverse world. We live in a multicultural society—so why not represent this?
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