Pomegranate: Persian pearl of West Didsbury

Having arrived in Manchester after a gridlock drive from the South, ferried a year’s worth of life contents to my new attic room and then manoeuvred the four-wheel drive of my suitcase up three flights of stairs, my companion and I rewarded ourselves with a meal in West Didsbury. Indecisive when choosing where to eat, a beautiful yellow and pink mosaic sign reading ‘Pomegranate’, scattered with delicate illustrations, caught our eye. We ventured in.

A waitress welcomed us into a warm, lantern-lit room, where a clutch of wooden tables rested, with an orange candle steadily melting on each. Soft aromas of sweet almonds, tangy plums and hints of saffron wafted from the kitchen as the sounds of Persian music reached our ears. True to its name, it was as if we had peeled back the shell of a pomegranate to reveal colourful seeds full of sights, tastes and smells.

Ordering two pomegranate juices was an obvious choice; however, the vibrant menu full of fresh dishes was much harder to select from due to the array of enticingly described options. We selected a traditional starter called ‘Musto gole surkh’, recommended by our waitress. A savoury cake arrived, consisting of walnuts and spinach with hints of lemon and garlic and accompanied by a small salad and yoghurt dip scattered with rose petals. Although the texture of the starter was thick – unlike anything I had tasted before—it was complemented by the cool yoghurt, the nutty taste on the warm naan making for a delicious bite.

Our expectations for the main chicken dishes that we had ordered were now very high. My companion had the ‘Morghe Alouie’; chicken cooked in saffron with dried plums, lemon and herbs and topped with flaked almonds, which she confirmed was “as delicious as it sounds”. I chose the ‘Zereshk Polo’: a lemon and thyme based dish with sweet peppers, which was perfectly set off by the delicious barberry and pistachio rice.

Portions were generous and the red spotted dishes against the Turkish bazaar decor created the feeling of a home-cooked meal. As for the quality, the chicken was tender and infused with subtle flavours, and unlike an Indian curry that can often make you feel full to the brim, we were pleasantly satisfied and still felt like we had just enough room for something sweet.

Ordering a scoop of ‘Bastani’, a traditional Persian ice cream perfumed with saffron and studded pistachios, made for a sweet creamy finish. It was accompanied by fresh mint tea served in miniature Persian prince glasses and saucers.

Pomegranate’s mission to send customers on a Persian journey was certainly achieved. Not only through its authentic blend of tastes, but aromas and sights. Its décor all added to the experience, and made the food so much more than just the moment where the fork touches the lips.

True to its name, ‘Pomegranate’ delivered mysterious deliciousness in its seeds. More striking still, was the friendliness and ambience of this Didsbury gem, which fulfils proprietor and head chef, Sia Yazdani’s aim that the restaurant become “a temporary home for the night.”

Leaving the glinting Persian den I found myself rather stunned to see a garish ‘takeaway’ sign flashing and felt cold air on my skin. The contrasting Mancunian high street and the reminder of the unpacking that awaited me back home confirmed Pomegranate’s subtle, yet authentic, charm. We had indulged in more than just a marvellous meal that night; we had been transported to another culture.

Pomegranate,
202 Burton Road,
West Didsbury,
Manchester,
M20 2LW

pomegranate-restaurant.co.uk/