Manchester is an undeniably foody city. With new restaurants and bakeries popping up daily and a wealth of bars and coffee shops to boast, one thing you are never short of in this city is choice. There are a plethora of lunch deals laid out for the hungry masses, and with that in mind, the lunch menu at San Carlo Fumo is simply not worth it.
From the elegant script which bears the restaurant’s name to the sloping orange canopies which shade their outdoor tables, it is undeniable that San Carlo is pitching itself to a more upscale consumer.
The moment we walked through the door we were greeted with bright smiles and a warm welcome. The hero of this restaurant is undoubtedly its excellent staff. The restaurant itself, however, was relatively quiet and the dim lighting struck a somewhat dissonant tone which felt out of place at a lunch sitting. Stomachs grumbling, we were ushered past a lavish bar to a faux marble table which seemed to promise a luxury lunch to match the unimpeachable service.
We began with the truffle arancini and beetroot and ricotta dip which came accompanied by a generous serving of garlic bread. I would absolutely recommend the garlic bread which was pleasantly crispy and distinctly garlicky with a semolina crumb that added a satisfying texture. The dip itself was crying out for salt, but once added it came to life, particularly when accompanied by the herby sauce which added the perfect freshness to this unassuming dish.
The truffle arancini, on the other hand, were truffle in name only, and amounted to a cursory grating of truffle on fried balls of plain risotto rice. They arrived drowning in a butter sauce which did not add to the dish. The taste left in the mouth was more fried food than anything else and I really think imbuing the arancini balls themselves with a truffle flavour would make a significant improvement. Given the choice, I am not sure I would go back for another bite.
The main course marked an improvement from this. The ricotta and spinach ravioli was dressed in a rich tomato sauce with garlic cloves that simply melted in the mouth. The chef certainly did not shy away from the olive oil which coated these tangy tomatoes to create a silky and complex mouthful. The pasta itself was nicely al dente and its spinach and ricotta filling was nothing to complain about, but nothing remarkable either.
The branzino however, came with a perfectly crispy skin and flaky flesh. Whilst we were told by our waitress it would come with asparagus, it was served with friarielli which had been sautéed into a nest of soft and acidic greens peppered with olives. This dish gave the impression of classic Italian food, but we were perhaps left hunting for something unique or memorable to elevate it.
Our dessert course continued in the same vein and, whilst pleasant, I would be hard-pressed to say they were amongst the best desserts I have tasted.
The pistachio torta was too sweet and sugar became the overriding flavour. Both the pistachio and vanilla layer were creamy and soft, but the cake layer erred on the small side and each bite amalgamated into a singular sugary mouthful broken up by pistachios which had gone soft in the torta.
The vanilla cheesecake was certainly a better option and was quickly polished off. There was a mild flavour from the vanilla bean, which could also be found in the vanilla gelato it was served with, and complimented the slight sourness of the cheesecake. Despite this, the biscuit base could have done with a touch of salt to really highlight its presence in the dish and create a more complex flavour profile.
Our highlight of the meal actually turned out to be the complimentary espresso we were served at the end. With a fruity flavour and punchy kick, the coffee at San Carlo is not to be missed.
Our lunch was perhaps best described as agreeable but underwhelming. We sampled a truly mixed bag of flavourful and average dishes. The restaurant markets itself as a classic, old-school Italian, and unfortunately, I don’t think the reality lives up to this. At £21.95 for two courses and £26.95 for three, a trip to San Carlo would be a splurge for any student.
For more fitting lunch deals, I would perhaps recommend Bundobust down the road, or BAB in the Northern Quarter instead, for more bang for your buck. Otherwise, San Carlo may be one to keep on the back burner for lunch, when somebody else is paying.
San Carlo is open from 12-11pm every day.
