The sun was out in South London as we made our way to our first London Fashion Week show, the streets buzzing with energy and anticipation. It felt surreal—like stepping into a world I’d only ever seen on TV. The scents of Creed and Tom Ford were in the air, cameras clicked, tripods were set up, and the play of colours and cut-outs on the crowd seemed like an embodiment of everything I’d imagined. The fast-paced energy was palpable, a reminder that I was standing right in the middle of my vision board come to life.
We arrived an hour early at St. John’s Church, the venue for the show, and it was the right call. The Victorian gothic architecture worked as the perfect backdrop for a fusion of curated pieces representative of Indian history. While waiting, we overheard conversations ranging from geopolitical chatter to debates on how much AI is ‘too much’ for an Instagram post. These discussions carried on as we were escorted to our front row seats. Placing our goodie bags down, we reminded ourselves to stay present and fully absorb the moment.
A celebration of Indian craft and fusion at India Day
Our first show was the iconic India Day show in partnership with NIF Global Students and the London School of Trends. This collection was a collaborative effort by all the designers, each presenting their distinct visions as a fusion of Indian craft. The show opened with vibrant pieces adorned with pichwai-inspired details, from pockets to belts. A warm green suit with a cropped blazer followed, perfectly complemented by a traditional shawl draped over the shoulder.
The pieces left us in awe, bringing our culture to life. Another standout was a fusion of a sari and blazered blouse, detailed with zardozi embroidery. Personally, I was excited to see the Rajasthani leheriyu, a naturally dyed stripe print, make an appearance, draped with a silver top that shimmered like pieces of a disco ball. These designs reflected the legacy of Indian art and fashion, with modern silhouettes as a canvas.
The designers walked the ramp, and we thought the show had ended. To our surprise, the audience was treated to a bhangra performance – a traditional dance from Punjab. Suddenly, we were pulled onto the ramp to dance with the crowd. It was an unexpected moment, showing how fashion can create a shared experience that connects us to both culture and each other.
Speaking with designers Jiya Anand Ghadia and Gayatri Panwar, we discovered that global warming inspired their collection. Their colour palette, combined with imagery of flora and fauna, depicted the delicate state of nature. The pieces were products of mindful craftsmanship. Ghadia, who had interned at an independent boutique, shared how witnessing the craftsmanship firsthand influenced her work. She also mentioned that “fusion is in trend,” as the world has been fusion wear that blends traditional essence with contemporary construction.
Celebrating heritage through Pearl Academy designs
The second show, presented by the students of Pearl Academy, showcased a collection infused with historical elements and contemporary silhouettes. Shivika Agarwal’s Teikirshy, an ode to the Toda tribe of Tamil Nadu, opened the show. She integrated the rare pukhoor embroidery technique, a geometric style inspired by the indigenous community. Next, Ryfin by Khushi Agarwal and Satyam Saini took the stage, carrying forward the legacy of Maharashtrian textiles through paithani embroidery in their designs. Shivangi Sharma’s Kunj Gatha followed, drawing inspiration from Vrindavan and incorporating its vibrant hues and symbolism. Motifs like flora, peacock, and cow, on pure crepe and raw silk, exuded luxury.
The show truly captured the vastness of India, and Payal Dawar’s collection was a perfect example. A tribute to the history of Bihar, Dawar’s work featured gorgeous madhubani art on hand-spun Ghicha silk from Bhagalpur, turning heads with its beauty. We were especially impressed by Hermann Singh’s Symphony of Art collection, which blended heritage, surrealism, and modernity. Finely tailored pieces with zardozi and aari work, playful geometry, and empowering quotes like “Yes, I Am Crazy” on the backs of the outfits left a lasting impact.
Final Thoughts
The shows develops on the idea that euro-centric fashion may have settled globally, but that shift in culture can be used as a tool to preserve and promote legacies of fashion from around the world. When it comes to India, it has an abundance of talent; it is a country that your favourite fashion house looks towards to manufacture their newest collection, for starters. It is about time that we refuse to let homogeneity created by interconnectedness mar us from tapping into the potential of the rich heritage that has fought through centuries.
These collections delivered the perfect intersection of history, craft, and modern design. Beyond aesthetics, they highlight the value of local craftsmanship, which offers a sustainable alternative to fast fashion. By honoring traditional skills, we not only show respect to artisans but also engage in a form of soft power against mass production. I envision a future for fashion where illustrative designs rooted in traditions will be indulged by people around the world as we enter into a phase of reviving the culture that raised us.
Looking back on this day with fondness, I am reminded that growth comes from experience and learning. Observing the fashion industry from behind the scenes reveals the immense collaboration that fuels it – from designers and models to PR teams and assistants – and that’s the beauty of it all.
