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24th April 2017

Review: Suri

“Perhaps we’ll head back for our graduation meals”

Opening its doors only recently, this new King Street restaurant, which shares its name with Katie Holmes and Tom Cruise’s daughter, looked set to impress. Their middle-eastern tapas style menu immediately took my fancy, even if the prices were definitely on the student wallet-breaking side.

Dissertations submitted meant my foodie friend and I were out to celebrate, and Suri seemed like the ideal place to do this. Their navy and gold coloured exterior screamed classiness, so luckily I had swapped our normal trainers for some wooden wedges.

On arrival, we were offered the choice of whether to sit upstairs or downstairs and we can advise you all, upstairs is the place to be. With an open kitchen, plush cream interior, and views out onto the Victorian buildings that King Street boasts, it is a truly lavish setting.

On opening the wine menu, we were fairly confused to see that wine was only offered by a 125ml measure or a bottle. Strange and perhaps a ploy to catch out an unobservant customer to spend £5 on a tiny splash of wine. We decided to order a glass of prosecco and a pricey, but worth it Gin Med Mare, a mixture of Mediterranean flavours such as thyme and mandarin.

As we sipped our drinks, we attentively listened to our waitress explain the menu. As is becoming increasingly common in modern restaurants, the menu is made for sharing.

Split into sections named ‘graze’, ‘field’, ‘farm’, and ‘waves’, we decided to try at least one from every section. We told the waitress our decisions and she honestly told us that it would be the right amount of food. She then told us that the dishes would be brought out in stages, a few at each time.

When looking at reviews earlier that day, I had realised a few comments regarding customers feeling rushed, so I felt they had obviously constructively listened to this, and decided to stagger their serving – a great idea.

First, came two idyllic manchego cheese filled filo parcels. They were melt in the middle and crispy on the outside, then drizzled with truffle oil and sweet honey. Balanced on top was a small handful of pickled red onion, which created a perfect sharpness to contrast the sweet.

We quickly finished them and moved on top our prawn dish. Underneath juicy, well-seasoned prawns, lay a mash of avocado mixed with middle-eastern seasoning, we were left scraping the dish to taste every last bit of the delicious combination.

Next, our fish order of hake was brought over with a side order of chorizo beans. The hake, a hard fish to cook, was flaky and moist with a crisp, salty skin. We halved it and wished we had more. The chorizo and white beans were submerged in a rich tomato sauce giving the dish a full comfort-feeling effect, something every customer would welcome.

We polished off these two options just in time for our most eagerly awaited dish to arrive. Of course, we ordered the 35-day aged steak. It was promised to be paired with a harissa spiced hollandaise sauce, which on paper grabbed us straight away.

Our steak was cooked medium-rare, just as we had asked and the sauce was a more-ish taste of spice, we would have loved a bigger pot full. Alongside the steak dish, we had ordered some Za’tar fries. Freshly fried the fries were topped with slithers of chilli and Za’tar, the herb was generously shaken over the top.

Finally, we were presented with a plate covered in slightly pink strips of pork belly, delicately placed over a warm orange coloured dhal and garnished with crispy pieces of kale. The tastes of the succulent pork with the slight hint of saffron in the chickpeas and the salty, buttery kale created beautifully balanced mouthfuls showcasing middle-eastern flavour to its fullest.

Once we had finished our savoury dishes, we were easily tempted to see the dessert menu. Something my guest and I have realised recently is that our sweet-tooth is nearly as strong as our savoury. We ordered a dessert each. When our cheery waitress placed them down, we knew we had made the right decision in ordering something sweet to finish our meal.

Our two options included a chocolate slab with a burnt orange ripple, and, a cardamom vanilla pannacotta with a rhubarb compote and ginger biscuit crumb. Both were extremely impressive so we would certainly recommend leaving space for dessert.

We realised, at the time of paying, we had spent a lot. So, maybe for an average student meal, Suri is out of price-range. There are definitely places to get more food for your money. However, celebration season is nigh, perhaps we’ll head back for our graduation meals.

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